Gliding and schussing

Cross-country skiing adventures abound

Story by Dawn Groves
Photos by Susan Cottrell Hindman

The best piece of advice I ever received on living in the Pacific Northwest was to learn a sport for every season. So, 15 years ago I took a cross-country skiing course from ski guru Steve Hindman and his equally skilled wife, Susan.

They held their course at Salmon Ridge, the local cross-country snow park. It was there
that I fell in love with gliding and schussing. Being new to winter sports that year, I also sampled the downhill ski scene. And even though I enjoyed its addictive, adrenaline-filled qualities, I never lost my taste for ungroomed tracks. Gliding without the crush and din of other skiers was and still is a true pleasure.

Recently, I asked Hindman about getting into the sport. His best advice? Always take a lesson, and make sure to have proper gear.

“Just like a bicycle needs to fit the rider, the skis must suit the body type, weight, skill and interests of the skier. Go to someone who specializes in skis and get properly fitted,” he says. “If you are buying skis at a ski swap or from an ad, make sure you’ve done your homework first.”

Hindman suggests preparing for winter sports by walking. “Start walking around the block and keep increasing your distance and speed,” he says. Working out with weights is also helpful. Your physical strength, stamina and comfort will rapidly improve with practice.

Todd Eastman, a colleague of Hindman and another local cross-country evangelist, has been racing, coaching and loving cross-country since 1972. Active in the Nooksack Nordic Ski Club, Eastman is adamant about learning to ski in the company of friends. “Ask your friends what they’d like to do on skis. Involve them. If you ski with special buddies, you won’t quit. You’ll keep increasing your fitness, having fun while doing it. There’s nothing better than laughing with a friend who’s fallen into a snow bank, especially after you’ve just done the same thing.”

“Cross-country has a reputation for attracting aerobic athletes, really fit people,” Eastman adds. “But that’s too limiting. It’s basically playing in the snow, and you can do that even if you’re not in great shape. Just pick the right places and don’t bite off more than you can chew.”

Eastman is right. In Hindman’s class so many years ago, I remember we were all victims of middle-age spread. (Except for the instructors, of course.) The good news was that it didn’t matter. We learned the basics of the Nordic stride and delighted in our clumsiness and budding skill. It was so much fun.

Cross-country skiing falls into stylistic categories based on terrain and technique. In the Pacific Northwest, we categorize cross-country skiing as follows:

Backcountry Skiing
Alpine Touring and Telemark Skiing. Backcountry skiers outfit themselves with alpine touring or telemark gear. Hindman says that backcountry requires heavier equipment for use on more vertical terrain.

“The steel-edged skis tend to be wider and used with sturdy boot/binding systems.” Telemark skiing refers to a free-heel form of turning with a flexed knee and raised heel on the inside ski.
It looks like the skier is kneeling on one ski and then the other.

“It’s more like mountaineering,” Eastman adds. “It’s a higher risk endeavor in uncontrolled territory. Anywhere you go, you’re on your own.”

Equipment includes the Mountaineers Ten Essentials, proper skis and skins (strips of material that attach to the undersides of the skis, providing traction for climbing), avalanche and self-rescue equipment, extra clothing and food. “It’s a lot like winter backpacking and should be treated with full regard for winter travel safety,” Eastman says. “Skiers must be knowledgable in the use of backcountry equipment and well-versed in avalanche awareness.”

Backcountry courses are available through the American Alpine Institute in Bellingham (www.aai.cc) and the Mt. Baker Ski Area (www.mtbaker.us).

Where to go: Heather Meadows, a groomed cross-country loop near the ski area’s upper lodge, is a good starting point for backcountry skiers. The nearby parking lot offers convenient access to a number of possible tours. “The North Cascades are full of places to trek,” Eastman says. “Backcountry season is virtually unlimited because we have some of the deepest snow on the planet.”

Cross-Country Downhill. Cross-country downhill (XCD) skiing is a bridge between backcountry and cross-country. It uses metal-edged skis with free-heel bindings, skins, wax or a patterned ski base. The terrain is generally more moderate as the gear is better suited for distance travel. It may or may not include avalanche terrain. XCD also has less extreme climbing.

“You can practice XCD skills in a ski area like Mt. Baker,” Eastman says. “Use the same downhill runs as everyone else. XCD places the emphasis on technique, instead of relying so much on powerful equipment.”

Where to go: Backcountry logging roads and trails are great, although a highly skilled XCD skier can handle almost any terrain. “The Ptarmigan Ridge tour in the spring is ooh-la-la,” Eastman laughs.

Cross-Country
Tour Skiing. Touring involves skiing on fire service roads, snowmobile roads and trails that aren’t groomed for skis. “You’re skiing wherever the opportunity presents itself, making your own way,” Eastman says. You can use cross-country downhill, track or skate skis. “Before grooming came along, this is what a lot of people thought cross-country was – it often features trail breaking.” Touring isn’t common in lower elevations of Whatcom County because of the unpredictable freeze line, but when snowplows venture into coastal zones, it’s time to strap on skis and step out the front door.

Where to go: On snowy days, try Hannegan Road Trail, Twin Lakes Road, Chuckanut Ridge or any logging road. Hovander Homestead Park, Cornwall Park and Silver Lake are especially good for touring.

Light Touring/Track Skiing. Wide, groomed trails bisected by one or two pairs of set tracks define cross-country track skiing. (The tracks are used by classic Nordic track skiers.) Track skiing is striding in a forward motion, like running or walking with a forward glide phase. The skis are longer with a specific flex zone under the foot to accommodate kicking and gliding. Track skis feature waxable or patterned bases.

If you’re skiing on the flat groomed surface on either side of the tracks then you’re in the skate lanes. Skating is a side-to-side motion similar to roller-skating. Skate skis are generally shorter than track skis, more torsionally rigid, and they have a stiffer overall flex. Like downhill skis, skate skis use glide wax from tip to tail for maximum speed.

Where to go: The Salmon Ridge network, run by the Nooksack Nordic Ski club, maintains 25 kilometers of groomed ski trails across from the Nooksack River at the Hannegan Pass trailhead. (Sno-Park passes are required. For a list of places to purchase a Sno-Park pass, visit www.parks.wa.gov/winter/vendors).

Another good spot is Cypress Mountain in West Vancouver. It has 20 kilometers of groomed trails with full amenities, lights on the lower trails and track ski rentals. Further north, there’s world-class cross-country skiing at Callahan Valley (where the cross-country Olympics were held) and Whistler.

What to wear
With so many types of cross-country gear available, the next obvious question is, “What should I wear?” Your attire depends on the weather, the type of skiing you’re doing and how hard you intend to exercise.

“Cross country skiers can wear basic jogging clothes with a jacket or other layers on top. If they’re working hard, they’ll get just as hot as when they’re jogging. Good gloves are necessary because of the cold. Skiers who choose to trek into the backcountry must dress more thoughtfully with the variety of possible weather and terrain conditions in mind. Generally speaking, the faster a person goes, the less clothing they need, but everyone should be prepared for unforeseen problems,” Hindman advises. X

Dawn Groves is a writer who’d rather be kayaking, cross-country skiing, practicing tai chi or eating sushi. Visit her blog at www.dawngroves.com.