A sure sign of oncoming winter is the annual Skagit and Sauk River bald eagle migration. One of the largest concentration of bald eagles in the lower 48 states, the eagles come from Alaska and northern Canada to take advantage of fall salmon runs. The Skagit River in particular is known for its population of eagles perched in cottonwood, maple and evergreen trees along the river’s edge. Hundreds of eagles can be seen in just the eight-mile river stretch between Marblemount and Rockport – the Skagit River Bald Eagle Natural Area. Eagle numbers peak from mid-December through mid-January, about two weeks after the height of salmon spawning, though many remain through the winter.
The arrival of the eagles also heralds a beloved annual tradition among river canoeists and kayakers: The Skagit River Eagle Float. Rafting outfitters share in this tradition by offering commercial eagle float trips for interested birdwatchers from around the globe. On weekends in the high season of bird watching you’ll sometimes see four or five rafts quietly floating along, respecting the rules, cameras clicking.
In support of the ecosystem, the U.S. Forest Service has enacted a voluntary river closure in effect from December 26 to February 28, until 11 a.m. daily. This limits the impact of boating on the eagles during their prime feeding time. The forest service also asks boaters to avoid beaching anywhere between Marblemount Bridge and Rockport Bridge.
Adult eagles are easy to spot along the river. They can be seen perching in bare tree branches, on boulders near river banks, even on gravel bars at the river’s surface. Their bright white heads shine against a gray winter backdrop. Eagles can be skittery at the sight of watercraft but they seem to adjust as the season progresses.
My first eagle float occurred while snow was falling throughout the Cascades. I blanched at the idea of snow paddling but the potential for eagle sightings won me over. To fend off the cold, I wore plenty of polypropylene layers under my dry suit and stowed a thermos of hot tea in the cockpit. (It’s important to dress for potential immersion as hypothermia is a given with glacier-fed rivers, and always paddle with two or more friends, just in case of a capsize.)
I launched my kayak into icy water and began scanning for wildlife. My boat drifted in slow, lazy circles, carried easily by the river’s current. I often found myself facing an upriver panorama framed with sheer mountain cliffs and cumulus clouds billowing over the ridgeline. Kayak chatter rose and fell as we floated through the snowy wonderland, eagles everywhere. The trip took a few hours to complete and by the end, I was ready to warm up in a local restaurant.
As winter sports go, I’d rate the Skagit eagle float in my top five favorite activities. With proper safety precautions and warm clothing, it’s a welcome part of the season and an opportunity to once again marvel at the beauty that is the Pacific Northwest. If you’re interested in participating in an eagle float, following are a few resources to help you plan.
Where to go. Put-in: Most floaters put in at the Marblemount boat launch across the bridge. The bridge becomes obvious as North Cascades Highway (State Route 20) takes a 90-degree turn at the east end of downtown Marblemount. Take Cascade River Road over the bridge and then turn right into an unpaved parking area. No services exist at the put-in except for a vault toilet located in the parking lot.
Take-out: Take out on the south end of the town of Rockport at the Howard Miller Steelhead Park. Drivers will see the signs for the park. Be sure to paddle with someone who knows the area and can recognize the take-out when they see it.
Kayak clubs. Local kayak clubs often host Skagit Eagle float days. Check out Bellingham’s WAKE (Whatcom Association of Kayak Enthusiasts, www.wakekayak.org) and Seattle’s WKC (Washington Kayak Club, www.washingtonkayakclub.org), for starters.
View from land. If you prefer to view the eagles from land, start your day at Howard Miller Steelhead County Park, located on the Skagit River in Rockport. The park is home to the Skagit River Bald Eagle Interpretative Center, which is open Friday through Sunday every weekend during the eagle watching season. There you can find information about eagles, viewing sites, and even guided walks along the river. Visit www.skagiteagle.org for more information.
Pullouts along the highway provide eagle viewing opportunities as well. At the milepost 100 for example, about two miles east of Howard Miller park, you will often see staff or volunteers from the Eagle Center with a spotting scope set up so that you can see the eagles up close.
For a viewing location further off the highway, go south across the Skagit River from Howard Miller Park on SR 530 and turn left on the other side of the bridge at Martin Road. Follow Martin Road until it takes a sharp turn to the right, and continue straight instead into a parking lot for the state owned Bald Eagle Natural Area. X
Dawn Groves is a writer who’d rather be kayaking, cross-country skiing, practicing tai chi or eating sushi. Visit her blog at www.dawngroves.com.
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Rafting Trips
If you don’t have the access or inclination to kayak or canoe, try rafting:
Alpine Adventures
360/863-6505 or 800/723-8386 (800/RAFT-FUN)
www.alpineadventures.com/skagit.html
Blue Sky Outfitters
206/938-4030 or 800/228-RAFT (7238)
www.blueskyoutfitters.com
Cascades Flyfishing Expeditions
360/510-0483
www.cascadesfly.com
Chinook Expeditions
360/793-3451 or 800/241-3451
www.chinookexpeditions.com
Pacific NW Float Trips
360/719-5808 or 866/967-8555
www.pacificnwfloattrips.com
Wild & Scenic River Tours
360/599-3115 or 800/413-6840
www.wildandscenic.com
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Eagle Viewing
Concrete: The city of Concrete, nine miles west of Rockport, hosts the Skagit Eagle Festival every weekend in January, featuring tours and educational programs, arts and crafts, and food and entertainment. A schedule of events can be found at www.concrete-wa.com.
Deming Homestead Eagle Park: Look for bald eagles along the trail by the North Fork of the Nooksack River. Go east on Mt. Baker Highway. Near milepost 15, turn right on Truck Road. Continue 0.7 miles to parking on right.
Visit www.co.whatcom.wa.us/parks/trails/deming_eagle.jsp.
Brackendale Eagles, British Columbia: Just north of Squamish, B.C., Brackendale centers around the local arts community. The eagles draw international crowds and can be viewed from the Tenderfoot Creek Fish hatchery in the Cheakamus Valley.
Visit www.brackendaleeagles.com.
Fraser Valley: The 16th annual Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival takes place the weekend of November 19 and 20. Enjoy plenty of eagle viewing from
Mission to Chilliwack. Visit www.fraservalleybaldeaglefestival.ca.
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