Getting there

Snowshoeing Sourdough & other winter trails

By Christina Claasen

Bright, crisp, sunny days are hard to come by during the winter, especially when they are timed on a weekend, but I managed to be blessed with such a day. I decided to take advantage of the moment and hit the trail with my husband on Sourdough Mountain.

Sourdough Mountain Trail in North Cascades National Park is not for wusses. The trail during summer conditions leads up to the summit in five miles, with a 5,000 foot elevation gain. In winter conditions, snowshoers will likely lose the trail two miles into the journey, having to break path on their own.

We started the morning leisurely, having the advantage of living two miles away from the trailhead. We got there at 10:30 a.m., breaking a sweat right off the bat. (For those coming from a few hours away, you may need to wake up at o’dark thirty to have time to enjoy the winter sunlight.) Even though I’ve been on this trail before, it took me about half a mile before I got into a good rhythm.

Switchbacking through the dry, snow-less trail we encountered cougar scat, as well as hand-sized cougar tracks, melted out in some thin snow, and likely a few weeks old. Hiking along the trail, through the Douglas firs and lodgepole pines, I caught glimpses of Davis Peak to the west, with its artful S-curved cornice capturing late morning sun, and sheer north face streaked with ice.

The snow level was fairly high, so we hiked about a mile and a half before putting on the snowshoes. With the warm days and cold nights, the snow was hard, like spring snow, making for a good outing. Snowshoeing on the steep path strained the legs, but felt like an excellent workout. For the next mile we followed the trail, switchbacking where the snow was packed down and the trail was clear. Often we stepped into the tracks of deer, following along until their prints veered up a steep slope in the wrong direction.

My snowshoes would cling onto the crispy snow with ease, though occasionally I’d step in a soft spot and sink or slide. Eventually, after almost two hours of hiking and snowshoeing, we could tell that we had lost the trail. A ridge lay above us, so we made our own switchback path through the evergreens, working toward the blue sky and the ever shortening tree line. Finally, we made it to the top of the ridge where we could see panoramic views all around – Davis Peak and the Skagit River Gorge to the west, Pyramid and Colonial Peaks to the south with the noonday sunlight shimmering above, and the summit of Sourdough to the northeast of us. We were still quite a few miles away from the infamous Sourdough Lookout. Our intention wasn’t to get to the top though, as it is unlikely that most snowshoers would find their way in a full day, but it was a worthwhile day trip nonetheless.

After various photo ops, snacks and moments of quiet contemplation, we followed our path back down, making it back in half the time it took us to get up. We crossed paths with another snowshoer heading up for a two-night camp along Sourdough’s ridges. We bade him happy trails and kept on moving down, sometimes almost in a run. In all, we were only out for about four hours, but we had an excellent adventure on a perfect winter day.

If you’re not too keen on going up Sourdough, try Pyramid Lake Trail or Thunder Arm Trail, both in North Cascades National Park along Highway 20. Pyramid Lake Trail is a little more than two miles distance to the lake with a 1,500 foot elevation gain. The trail starts steeply, but levels out in a few areas, where Pyramid Creek and old-growth Cedar glades flatten out. After about a mile of hiking, snow levels should be thick enough to strap on the snowshoes. Once at the lake, stop for a snack and some exploration. On a sunny day, a clear view of Pyramid Peak lies to the southwest.

Thunder Arm Trail is a much more low-key start, beginning at the Colonial Creek campground. The campground is often plowed in so you’ll have to park on the side of the road and walk in to the end of the campground to the trailhead. Since this trail follows Thunder Creek at first, it is unlikely to find snow until after crossing the bridge and getting up along the trail that leads to Fourth of July Pass. Much like the Pyramid Lake Trail, this trail climbs through hundred-year-old Douglas firs and lichen-covered trees. Mountain views are more subtle from here, with the possibility of seeing parts of Colonial. Mostly, it’s just a good place to get out in the snow for a winter workout.

Getting there:

All three trails are accessible by taking Highway 20 east into North Cascades National Park. To get to the Sourdough Mountain Trail turn left at mile marker 126 to the town of Diablo. Once in the town you will see a yellow and white striped dome building. Park on the shoulder of the road and take the trail, which begins behind the building. Pyramid Lake Trail is near mile marker 127. The trail will be marked on the right hand side of the highway, but the parking pull-out is across the street on the left. Colonial Creek Campground is near mile marker 130. Park along the shoulder of the highway if the entrance is snow blocked. The trailhead is at the end of the campground.