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Summer 2005

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A berry nice treat

by Meg Olson

From high up in the mountains to the fertile farmland at their feet,unassuming bushes are bejeweling themselves in succulent finery: strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, tay-berries, marionberries, blackberries, gooseberries, huckleberries,salmon berries, thimble berries, loganberries. This is berry country andit’s berry season.

Berry farmers and bears agree;berries just might be the best food going. They smell as good as they taste, naturally sweet, rich yet lively. They come in tidy packages, perfect for nibbling, yet are easily transformed into everything from familiar pies to quirky sauces. Eat more of them and you’ll live longer.

“You’re supposed to eat a cup of berries a day,” says Kyle Haugen, minding the field at Haugen Raspberry Farm in Lynden. “Raspberries have cancer-fighting agents.” And it’s not just talk. Researchers in South Carolina have found that raspberries, blueberries and strawberries contain compounds found to inhibit the growth of cancer cells in the laboratory. In addition to being packed with vitamins, minerals and fiber berries contain high levels of antioxidants and phyto-chemicals that have been praised for slowing the aging process,improving vision and memory and protecting against heart disease.

They may be serious nutrition but berries are also just fun, and especially fun to go and pick yourself. Whatcom County produces more red raspberries per capita than anywhere else in the world, and doesn’t do too bad in the other berry categories as well. Not much of a surprise then that during berry season a trip down the county’s country roads is almost certain to run into a hand painted sign touting “U-Pick Berries.” So park on the edge of the field, grab a bucket and dive in. It’s messy and sticky, the smell is heady as you inch down the rows looking for the most perfect,the most ripe, the most enormous one – and pop it in your mouth. It is very important to remember you’re supposed to take some home with you, not to mention pay for the feast,so don’t just eat your way along. Try not to, at least.

Some of the county’s farms turn into miniature country fairs during berry season. McPhail Berry Farm between Lynden and Birch Bay has a petting zoo, smoothies and a picnic area to round out a few hours in their berry patch. In the kitchen of their store, baker Marta Castenada spends the day turning out tarts and pies and cobblers. In June it may all be strawberry but by mid-July “we have everything and a lot of everything,” says Leslie Dejong behind the counter.

Harry Williams’ great-great grandparents homesteaded at the rim of the Mt. Baker foothills in 1888 and today the Williams farm grows 13 varieties of blueberries with a smattering of raspberries, blackberries and tayberries. “We have a fresh crop going all season long,” he said. They sell 100 tons of blueberries every year under the Blue Valley label found in local stores but still run a stand on Deming Road south of the Mt. Baker Highway. “We’re bigger than a fruit stand but not too big,” he said.

Williams will show you the right way to pick a blueberry, cupping your hand and gently rolling the ripe fruit in with your thumb, and the best way to eat them – by the handful. “I’m my best customer,”he mumbles as he strolls through canes sporting two-inch long tay-berries. He recommends popping a few bags of berries in the freezer for snacking all year. “When my kids were little there was always a blue trail from the freezer,” he said.

Whether you’re picking or just buying, a berry road trip demands some supplies. In warm weather keep your berries from languishing by bringing along a cooler. Many u-pick farms don’t have containers for picking, and if they have anything to take your berries home init’s going to be a bag and that’s going to mean squashed berries: bring rigid containers and a picking pail. Half the fun of berry picking is the sweet, sticky mess. This is not fun,however, on the steering wheel. Bring something to clean your hands with. And don’t forget sunscreen and a hat! It’s summertime!

Berry Farms Barbie’s Berries Getting There: Coming from I-5 on Birch Bay-Lynden Road turn right on Enterprise Road and left on Willey’s Lake Road. Turn right on Melody Lane to the farm. Phone: 360/384-1260 Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily Haugen Raspberry Farm Getting There: Traveling up the Guide Meridian (SR 539) from I-5 turn right on East Pole Road and the field on the right is marked by a big sign. Phone: 360/354-4764 Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Saturday McPhail Berry Farm Getting There: Coming from I-5 on Birch Bay-Lynden Road turn left on Bob Hall Road and the farm’s not far on your right. Phone: 360/354-5936 Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily Williams Farms Getting There: Follow the Mt. Baker Highway (SR 542) through Nugent’s Corner and watch for a sign and a right turn on Hillard Road, then take a quick left at Deming Road. Phone: 360/592-6720 Hours: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday-Saturday.

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