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Summer 2007

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Flowers of the mountain

By Jack Kintner

“One thing people say about native plant hikes,” said Don Hicks of Bellingham, “is that we’ve been out three hours and can still see our car.” A pace that slow is as unusual as someone doing 25 on the freeway – it happens, but it does leave you scratching your head at first.

If you’re like a lot of weekend hikers on and around Mt. Baker, a day in the woods can begin frantically as you toss together gear and kids or roommates or pets and buzz off to the mountain, and continue rushing once you’re on the trail.

“I used to hike like that,” smiled Walt Lockwood, co-author of three recent books on northwest wildflowers published by Hancock House. “But when you get into wildflowers and other kinds of plant life you see in the woods it slows you down, and that’s a good thing.”

Indeed, on a recent hike with Lockwood and fellow plant aficionado Lyle Anderson we were so slow we were being passed by slugs, but that didn’t matter. In the Zen sense of the journey being the destination we were already “there.” We stopped every few yards to look at something else fascinating, enjoying the filtered light through the second growth lowland forest, finding all kinds of things to examine, photograph and describe to each other.

Wildflowers will do that to you, if you let them.

“This is called a bird’s nest fungus,” said Anderson at one point, indicating a tiny little cup secured to a twig. It looked like an old pottery mug stained a coffee and cream color on the inside. “It disperses its spores when a rain drop hits it just so, splashing everything out and on its way,” he explained.

Instead of the almost forced march pace some hikers adopt, Lockwood’s leisurely approach is more like wandering through a museum. Sometimes the flowers are obvious, as when the meadows around the hundreds of tarns in Yellow Aster Butte are in bloom or when the high meadows on the flanks of Sauk Mountain are wrapped in their spring colors.

Lockwood, a career foreign service officer who was president of the Komo Kulshan chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society (WNPS) last year, has lately turned his attentions to a kind of plant life that’s not so obvious, the lichens, often the first plant to colonize a barren area.

“They’re very interesting,” he said with a quiet zeal, “and are actually a kind of partnership between a fungus that provides the structure and an algae that helps nurture the fungus.” This partnership, or symbiosis in the language of biology, gives rise to a wonderful variety of shapes and colors that are as tough as they are peculiar.

Lockwood pointed out a rock that seemed to have been tagged like a boxcar by a miniature vandal with a can of spray paint, leaving a large gray stain mottled with black spots. “This is a crustose form, flat, a lot like paint. There’s foliose (leafy), fruticose (branched) and a few others.” He carefully examined several with a hand lens revealing tiny delicate structures in the plants and colors that otherwise wouldn’t be noticed.

Once Lockwood began pointing out various types, lichens seemed to be everywhere, as with the flowers. The season for flowers is just getting underway as the warmer weather melts the snowpack. Later in the season, generally, one should go higher up in the hills to see the blooms.

Flowers, like lichens, often seem to take root and survive in what appear to be almost impossible situations. Lockwood, who has climbed Rainier, Baker and other peaks as far away as Kilimanjaro in Africa, cited as an example the flowers that await those who make the arduous hike up to the top of 5,740-foot Church Mountain. It’s a four-mile hike that gains 3,600 feet to the steeple-like pinnacle visible from the Mt. Baker Highway just before crossing the river east of the town of Glacier.

“The top has room for maybe two couples. Just below the summit there’s a good variety growing out of the rocks. There are Cut-leaved Daisies, members of the Aster family and seen throughout the region in a variety of habitats including alpine ridges. There’s also some small white-flowered Spotted Saxifrage or Saxifrage bronchialis of the Saxifrage family. This little beauty displays reddish-purple spots on the (five) petals. It is common on rocky ridges, mainly in the alpine zone,” Lockwood said. Saxifrage means “stone breaker,” and can also be found near Artist Point growing right out of the rocks.
Alpine meadows filled with flowers, such as those shown in this issue’s cover photo by Bellingham photographer Brett Baunton, are a little harder to reach this year as the Skyline Trail leading to Chowder Ridge is closed. Alternatives would be the seven mile hike into spectacular Yellow Aster Butte as well as the Sauk Mountain trail off the North Cascades Highway.

The Boulder Ridge trail off Baker Lake Road goes up an arm of Mt. Baker extending from the southeast side, much of it through wetlands that can make for muddy hiking and bugs. “It’s got great wildflowers, though,” Lockwood said, “and there’s a kind of shortcut for the last 80 to 100 feet up to the top of the ridge on a fixed rope.”
There are also a number of shorter hikes in the heather parks around the Mt. Baker ski area that have good wildflower displays in the early summer. Current information about specific places to go is available at the Glacier Public Service Center just east of the village, phone 360/599-2714. On the south side, try the North Cascades National Park and Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest service center at 810 State Route 20 in Sedro-Woolley, 360/856-5700, the visitor information line at 360/854-7200 or the Wilderness Information Center at 360/873-4590 ext. 39.

Lockwood, along with co-authors Dana Visalli and Derick Ditchburn, wrote and photographed Northwest Mountain Wildflowers and Northwest Coastal Wildflowers for Hancock House publishers. The books are sized for convenient backpacking and the flowers are separated into eight sections by color, making identification easy. For more information go to the Hancock House website at www.hancockhouse.com.

Lockwood is leading a two mile wildflower walk through the Bagley Lakes area on Sunday, July 29, at 1 p.m., departing from the Heather Meadows Visitor Center near the Mt. Baker Ski Area. For more information call the Glacier Public Service Center at 360/599-2714.
Finally, for more information on the Washington Native Plant Society go to their website at www.wnps.org. The group is hosting a study weekend on and around Mt. Baker July 20 through 22.

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