Diedre, Squamish 9/8/13

Diedre, Squamish 9/8/13

Photo by Casey O’Brien

Diedre is a classic 5.8 on the apron of the Chief. Six pitches of easy/moderate slab, with a 100m layback crack thrown in make it a popular introduction to multipitch trad climbs in Squamish.

On a warm September day, it was dry from top to bottom and stayed shady until around 3 p.m when we topped out. We knew it was a popular route so we got their early, but not early enough. We waited in a long line. Don’t go on a weekend unless you don’t mind climbing with other people and waiting around a bit.


Here are the pitch descriptions from Mountain Project:

“P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.

P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.

P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.

P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.

P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.

P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.”