If you can see Mt. Baker, you are part of The Experience
Thousands of downhill skiers descend on the mountain like revelers at spring break, intent on getting to where the action is. Queuing up for a seat on lifts that will ferry them to the top, they’ll disembark and begin the task of trying to find an unobstructed (and highly coveted) path back down.
Nearby, other enthusiasts step onto slender skis, lower their sunglasses, and enter a world where snowflakes fall on cedars, sunlight glistens off ice crystals, and the gentle swooshing of soft snow offers the only noise that surrounds them.
While that might be an idealized version of what cross-country skiing is versus the rush-hour frenzy of a busy day on the downhill slopes, there’s no arguing that of the two types of skiing, cross-country (or Nordic) is the more peaceful alternative to Alpine.
While you can participate almost anytime there’s enough snow on the ground, cross-country skiing in the spring is one of nature’s true delights. Luckily for us, we’ve got four ideal spots to learn and/or enjoy the sport just beyond the Canadian border–where the exchange rate also works in our favor.
Zigzagging its way up the road from Highway 99, Cypress Mountain offers one of the most easily accessible cross-country skiing areas. Located in West Vancouver, it has 19 km (about 12 miles) of groomed and track-set trails and is the closest option to the border.
For those unfamiliar with the term, track-set trails are created using a specialized machine to make paths in the snow specifically designed for classic style cross-country skiing. The tracks allow you to glide along those paths with your skis properly positioned, in essence providing a groomed trail with dedicated grooves.
Cypress Mountains offers a multitude of options including showing up with your own skis, purchasing a pass and heading out on the trails, or signing up for an individual or group lesson that can include rented equipment.
Open daily for daytime skiing, there’s also illuminated nighttime skiing along 7.5 km of trails. And while you’re there, be sure to check out Hollyburn Lodge, a historic property that’s been hosting skiers since the ‘20s. Recently rebuilt, it still boasts turn-of-the-century charm and has live music on Saturday nights.
Want to ski in the literal footsteps of Olympic athletes? If so, set your sights on Whistler Olympic Park, host for the 2010 Winter Olympics’ Nordic events and explore the park’s 55 km of world-class trails. Situated within the Callaghan Valley, they’re rated from beginner to expert.
Some of those expert skiers include Maureen and Ned, a couple from nearby Lummi Island who booked a three-day, midweek cross-country skiing trip to the park and were able to enjoy half-price trail tickets for skiers over the age of 60.
“Skiing midweek was a great decision,” said Maureen. “But even on weekends everyone would be spread out. Although we aren’t beginners, it’s the perfect place to get introduced to the sport because of all the flat trails. Those skiers can take it slow and not cover as much ground as we might, which is about 10 miles a day.
“We’ve skied all over the world,” she continued, “and these are some of the prettiest groomed trails Ned and I have ever seen. It is spectacularly beautiful. There are trails with creeks and tiny waterfalls with a gorgeous tree canopy and mountains that pop into view. They’ve even got a network of pet-friendly trails so you’re likely to see people out skiing alongside their dogs.”
For more information on the dog-friendly aspects of the park, visit: https://www.whistlerolympicpark.com/things-to-do/dog-friendly-skiing-snowshoeing
Adjacent to Whistler Olympic Park, The Callaghan offers 40 km of groomed trails (half of which are dog-friendly) and where you can really feel like you’re getting away from it all.
Located in the midst of sweeping valleys, old-growth cedars, and mountainous ridges is the Callaghan’s Solitude Valley: home to the Journeyman Lodge. The full-service, chalet-style lodge offers 10 rooms, a communal living room, locally sourced dining, and a sauna perched right above a creek.
Outside of hopping a ride on the snowcat (which also ferries gear and overnight necessities), Nordic skiers can ski directly to the lodge. Once there, you’ll have access to a network of trails leading directly from the lodge and into the surrounding backcountry.
What about those of us who are interested in a day’s worth of cross-country skiing within striking distance of après ski shopping, drinking and dining? If that’s the case, head to the heart of Whistler Village where you can easily access Lost Lake Park.
Nestled within the mountains’ coastal forest and providing stunning lakeside views, the park offers 25 km of trails within view of Whistler and Blackcomb Mountain. During limited times of the year, the PassivHaus (built in 2010 to accommodate the Austrian Olympic contingent) serves light snacks and offers rentals.
Night skiing is also an option in a section of the park and is available 3-8 p.m. daily. After which you can head back to the village and enjoy some nightlife and local fare. X
