Spring Break on the Oregon Coast

When I’m driving along the Oregon Coast, it feels like, around every corner, I exclaim to the passengers, “This has to be the most beautiful place in the world!” 

The Oregon Coast is filled with dynamic views of rock formations bursting from the endless Pacific Ocean and vast sandy beaches flanked by jagged cliffs. Waves crash into the shores and water swirls, becoming a white foamy froth of bubbles. At any moment, a sunny, blue-sky day can transform into a stormy deluge, making the scene all the more dynamic. The clouds and seas change shapes in unison, and the eyes can’t determine where the ocean, sea and clouds separate. Wind makes the crashing waves more violent, while in the turmoil of it all, there’s a sense of calm as all the creatures stop moving to cuddle up and watch the show.

This utopian view provides entertainment that rivals the best reality TV shows. There is one downside, though. It’s not a secret. 

The Oregon Coast attracts approximately 30 million people each year, creating lines of traffic, congested turnouts and busy beaches. We have done the summer Oregon Coast road trip and lamented how great this drive would be without all the people, understanding how hypocritical the statement was. The reality is humans love beautiful places, so we swarm them. 

“If there were only a way to experience this beauty with fewer people,” we thought. Then lo and behold, the invitation came through – a wedding in the charming coastal town of Yachats over spring break.

Yachats sits on a bluff in the middle of Oregon’s stretch of U.S. Highway 101. Excitedly, we planned our trip, which would include a couple of nights of camping in our van and a couple of nights in a motel in Yachats, where the wedding would take place. 

From previous experience, we were worried about finding camp spots, and given the unpredictability of temperatures and weather, we wanted hookups at the campsite so we could run a heater. To our surprise, we had no issue finding spots. Heading south from our home in Whatcom County, once we made it through the gauntlet of Interstate 5, we headed west at Portland, and to our surprise, there was little to no traffic. The route we took had us snake down out of some low mountains until the view of the Pacific opened up before us.

We hit the coast and began winding our way south, free of congestion. We stopped in the little towns that dot the highway, buying saltwater taffy and other camping necessities. To our pleasant surprise, parking spots were abundant, and restaurants had no wait. Spring break on the Oregon Coast was shaping up nicely; we even had sunshine! 

I love everything about road trips except for the traffic. I enjoy the pace of driving along roads and pulling off to get a bite to eat or to take a walk in a little town. I like to impulsively yank the van into a turnoff for a group selfie or to explore an unknown trail or beach. 

Generally, it’s the congestion that deters a detour, and without it, my family was trapped with my impulses. They are generally good sports about it, but they do have their limitations, and as we made our way south and I eagerly wanted to explore every nook and cranny of the coast, they wrestled with the fact that the weather was as impulsive as I am.

One stop would be a walk along a sunny boardwalk, where little rises in elevation had us shedding layers, only to abruptly put them back on around a corner as a brisk wind cut through a thin sweatshirt. Some stops saw drizzly walks along the beach, where the lure of beachcombing was enough to coax my wife out into the weather. Other stops were downpours where I got outvoted, and we enjoyed the stormy view from the confines of the van.

As temperatures dipped in the evening, we nestled in the van, used the Jetboil to reconstitute simple meals, played games and read, then drifted off to sleep under a layer of blankets. Having the hookups at the campgrounds was great. Our van is a pop-up weekender, so there is no bathroom or kitchen, but we do have a couple of outlets that connect to shore power. In the evening, a small space heater warmed the van right up while we hung out, and then we turned it off for the night while under the blankets.

I’m an early riser, so in the morning I put on my layers and turned on the heater before setting out to explore the area. One morning, I found myself playing a game of solo disc golf on the campground’s course. I ran from throw to throw to stay warm, quickly realizing that a game of solo fetch is pretty fun. I bet dogs wish they had arms. One morning, I had one of the best beach walks of my life.

We were staying at a campground just south of Newport, and a short trail led to an expansive beach. The beach was mostly sandy, with patches of pebbles, great for agate hunting. Driftwood formations were scattered along the shore, looking like intentionally placed art installations. It was a blustery morning with the rain varying between lightly falling and blowing sideways, but the temperature was mild, so with the hood up, it was a cozy walk. I took time to take in the expansive views and examine the small details. Little sea creatures along the shore kept me company, and the little rocks required constant examination in case the perfect agate lay among them.

While I walked, I couldn’t believe the contrast to the summer months. I had the beach entirely to myself. I was taking it in as one would have a thousand years ago, well, except for the modern raincoat and the digital camera. No, I wasn’t in board shorts and flip-flops, but the weather was part of the adventure, and while I will never turn down a sunny beach day, on this morning, the weather was perfect. 

Throughout my walk, I saw only one other person. It was some badass running barefoot in shorts and a T-shirt. I smiled, waved and shivered sympathetically as I peeked out from my hood. He had the look of a person who had conditioned himself to brave any weather in the name of fitness.

I returned to the van to the smell of warm coffee. I encouraged a little movement from my family, hoping we could pack up and get back on the road. Our next stop would be Yachats, which meant party time and a new coastline to explore. We would have a day of hanging out with old friends and setting up before the wedding the following day. As could be predicted, a storm blew in for the wedding, making it all the more fun and memorable. With tent flaps whipping in the wind and rain trying to sneak in, the brief ceremony was charming before we all headed inside to eat, drink and dance.

The next day, of course, was a beautiful, sunny day, so I went on one more excursion, exploring the jagged rocks along the shore, inspecting the colorful seaweed, and enjoying the misty sprays from the waves crashing into the rocks. After a little cleanup and loading up of the van, we hit the road for home. We wound our way north, enjoying the new view around every corner before heading east toward I-5, leaving the coast in our review mirror. In that moment, we committed to a future spring trip to the Oregon Coast to enjoy small crowds, a cozy van and dynamic weather.    X